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| WWD's 100th Anniversary Issue |
Pour fêter ses 100 ans, le Women's Wear Daily publie une édition spéciale anniversaire avec une sélection des 100 moments les plus remarquables de ce siècle de Mode.
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| Une du WWD 100 years avec Claude Montana (en haut à droite - derrière Beyoncé) |
Le moment remarquable n°60
"Oh Mama ! Mugler & Montana"
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| WWD "Oh Mama ! Mugler & Montana" |
"One of the eighties' most compelling fashion contributions was the invention of the power woman, whose overt confidence and self-control, wether in the boardroom or bedroom, was expressed most pointedly through exaggerated shoulders and an itty bitty waist. Behind her stood two provocateurs, Thierry Mugler and Claude Montana, both Frenchmen of roughly the same age, and rivals thus, who gravitated toward fantastical extremes. "From the very first," wrote WWD in 1979, "Mugler promoted himself as a 'futuristic troubadour' and indeed his strident skintight suits with spiralled shoulders, clenched waists and gladiator cork accessories did look like something out of a science-fiction fantasy. 'It was Barbarella, part Ayn Rand,' observed one critic of a Mugler show, and people started to say that Mugler made clothes for the Eighties."
Montana's look was just as out-there aggressive: "More often than not, the early concepts were indeed quite extreme, based on hard-deged, attention-getting interpretations of mannish, locker-room fantasies - sailors, Hell's Angels, football players, even Wall Street bankers - all rendered with an explicit focus on the big, sharp shoulder that became Montana's signature," wrote WWD in 1984, at which point Lontana was a commercial success regardless of his intentions. "When I started, I wanted to shock," Montana told WWD. "It was an unconscious impulse, but that's what it was all about."
Jessica Iredale
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| WWD "Oh Mama ! Mugler and Montana" |
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| Défilé Claude Montana collection automne-hiver 1983 |
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| WWD 100 Years - 100 Designers - The book |
